This is a blog that captures notes, feelings, and images from our year long trip around the world.

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Tim_Feb 28 - Mar 14 (Vietnam)

Feb 28
That day started like many other days with me having to throw my butt out of the bed and the weight of it drags the rest of my body out. This day was particularly hard since I knew I would be sleeping in a bus that night which was for sure going to be hell. I was trying to prepare myself for the journey the second I got out of bed. In the bathroom mirror I started slapping myself and saying things like "You can do it Tim! - Your my nigger Tim! - Just cause girls think your a nerd doesn't mean your not hung like a horse!". In no time I was pumped and ready to drink my raw eggs and play my Rocky songs on my MP3 player.

With a couple girly style pushups under my belt Ana and I hit the streets to start the day. Of course the girls outside noticed I had been working out and immediately started whistling and blowing kisses my way. Ana got pissed so I laid low and tried to stay cool while we were eating lunch at a local place.

With the girls still on my tip we headed to the local internet place to try and catch up on our blogs. I spent about the next three hours watching the day start to turn sour. First it started off that my computer couldn't make apostrophe marks. Instead I got a dumb ass Latin "e". What the hell was that. I ain't no menudo eating beaner? Anyways essay I continued to type and sure enough the internet started sucking hard. I mean like an old hooker in New York hard. People started leaving and I stayed there watching each page build letter by letter. You know I'm not even going to tell you the rest of my computer problems because I'm started to get mad just thinking about it. I don't want to get mad because bad things happen when that happens.

So with my blood pressure skyrocketing I left the cafe and hit the hot streets to eat another meal before we hit the bus. Of course the shake I ordered was horrible and the flies seemed to all be headed my way. What was going on? I tried to remain cool but things were going downhill and I hadn't even gotten on the overnight bus yet. Shit.

We headed back to our hotel after eating to wait for the mini van that was going to pick us up between 4 and 5:10pm. 5:10 pm my ass. No one in Laos uses the ten minute marks when they talk about time. I knew it was going to be bad the second I heard that. If they would have told me something like we'll pick you up in the mini van between Feb 28 and June 30th I would have believed them more. But ten minutes!

Sure enough after waiting till 5:30 pm Ana ran to the local travel agency to see what the hell was going on. They said they were going to be at our place in four minutes. What the hell was that? Who are these people?

Of course fifteen minutes later the van finally showed up. I could tell it was ours because there were about twenty people too many on the inside and bags all over the roof of the mini van.

It took about ten minutes to get to the bus station where the fun started the minute we got off the bus. First the driver tells us wait here that another bus was coming for us. Then the guys on the ground - who know who the hell they were started telling us get on the bus to Hanoi. I said why aren't we on the bus that says Hue right next to it. That was where we were headed and didn't that make sense. Oh no the Hanoi bus goes to Hue. We don't have to transfer. Then I said the people going to Hanoi have to transfer then. No this bus goes to Hanoi. But if that bus goes to Hanoi then this one doesn't, but when they transfer the other one doesn't go but waits and all that in Hanoi yes. Yes. No Yes. Yes. No Yes. No. No. Ok put our bags on and let's go.

Finally we were on the bus that said Hanoi and somehow we were going to make it to Hue? Whatever. In the end I told a girl that if we don't make it to Hue I was going to take her shoes. She laughed but I told her I was serious. They were too small for me but I could give them to my nieces as a present and they would think I actually bought them for them.

Slowly over the next hour small mini van buses started dropping off groups of people like us. More and more keep pilling on. I knew it was trouble and told Ana save our seat no matter what. I told her to use the karate moves we learned in our classes we took or use the switch blade she had in hidden between her butt cheeks. Whatever it took.

As the bus filled it started getting horribly hot and crowded we jumped in our seats and secured our place. Sure enough about the time we were going to leave the bus filled up and another group arrived. As soon as the last two girls got on board they threw a couple large boxes in the bus to block the walkway, shut the door, and took off. There were four backpackers standing up and they started yelling that they had no seat. I could tell the driver and his helpers had done this scam before and were trying to get as far away from the bus station as possible so no one could jump off. The large boxes were in the way of the girls getting off and talking with the guys driving. I told the girls they better get off right now or they were going to have to sit and sleep in the isle for the entire twenty four hour trip. They were all pretty timid except one girl from Israel. I wasn't surprised to see that. She was a little firecracker and started yelling at everyone.

The girl from Israel kept yelling and eventually the bus pulled over and was doing something with the bus. She went to the front and took the seat of one of the helpers. They got in a pretty violent argument and he started grabbing her and started to try and get her out of the seat. But she finally gave in and headed to sit down in the isle of the bus.

Of course she sat right next to me and started talking "hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhumas this and hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhuymas that!. Fuck she was right next to me and theirs only one thing I hate more than people who hate other cultures and that's the Israelis. Man I couldn't believe it she was right next to bumping up against me and trying to take the leg room under my legs. Fuck what a little pain in the ass she was. To top things off she leaned her damn guitar she drags around right against my shoulder. But I only had to give it one good shrug to keep it off. Backpackers with guitars don't want you messing with instruments. There more precious than babies to them. Freaking hippies.

There I was in a crowded bus with no leg under or in front of me because of the large sacks of food they placed under them. The air was hot and humid and smelled of hippie armpits and dreadlocks and to top it off Mrs. Hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhumas this and hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhumas that was out of control. Oh man we were only about ten feet from Vientane and that much had happened. What a day I was having.

I tried to meditate and lower my blood pressure over the next couple hours. But every few minutes I was fighting to keep what leg room I had away from Mrs. Humus. She was driving me nuts and seemed to think the bus was hers since she had to sit on the floor. At one point a guy commented about her guitar and said if she could play it. I put my nail clippers on my jugular and was ready to snip down when she said "I'm a little tired now but maybe we can play later". I was relieved but I keep my nail clipper close just in case.

Around 9:00pm we stopped to eat. Who the hell eats that late is beyond me but what the hell I got a chance to stretch my wings and relax a little. The place they stopped was great and the bathrooms were in the back garden. It's always nice to take a leak in someone's backyard while the neighbors look and laugh.

We hit the road after dinner and things started to settle down a bit and I started getting sleepy. I fought to stay up so that once I fell asleep I could stay sleeping. Eventually though I couldn't help it and I started to fall asleep. The first thing to fall asleep was my legs. They were pinned down in a weird contorted position which I think aided in their ability to fall asleep so easily. Second was my butt. My old broken tailbone from skydiving helped me out there. Thirdly my left arm and pancreases. Then eventually I fell asleep.







Mar 1
Sometime around 2:00 the bus stopped again at a dinner looking place. It was another chance to eat. Man who were these Vietnamese people. Everyone got off the bus and the first thing I noticed was the weather. It had gotten colder and we must have been higher in the mountains. I did remember a couple times become semi conscious and seeing the bus going up some pretty steep hills. A few times they even had to go into first gear. They were steep.

Ana and I got out of the bus and hung out for a while. The air was pretty cold and we eventually got our sweaters to put on. That was really cold for this area. About an hour passed and everyone started wondering what the hell was going on. The driver was spread out across the steering wheel and the seat and I guess we were resting for a while? Who knows on those trips?

I decided it was time to chill and lay down for a little bit. The only place to lie down was on the bed of a large semi truck that was parked near by. The bed of the truck was made of wood and there were a few planks missing so Ana and I had to lay a few feet apart with a hole between us. I'm pretty sure the bed of the truck was dirty but who cared I was able to lay flat and it was three in the morning. Eventually about ten people were strewn across the bed of the truck looking up at the sky. It was a beautiful night and the moon was almost full. You could hear the small crickets and birds in the surrounding jungle and things in my opinion could have been worse.

After a while Ana grew cold and went back into the bus to grab our sleeping bag. The bus was really stuffy and humid and smelled like dirty hippie backpackers so we decided it was better outside with the cold. Ana decided she wanted to lay with me and the blanket since she felt bad hogging it. I said if she could fit on the small area I was laying then I was game. Sure enough if we both went on our sides we fit. The only thing was that if I rolled over to my left I would fall off the side of the truck. It was about four feet in the air so I'm sure there was a good chance I could mess up my more than beautiful face. That worried me but in the end I held her close and our body heat felt nice.

About two hours later I woke up immediately and checked if our bus was still there. All the people who were on the truck trailer with us were gone. I think they all got too cold and headed inside the bus. Luckily our bus was still there and I was happy to see that. Unluckily I felt like a paraplegic since my entire right side was frozen dead numb.

Eventually I regained feeling back in the side of my body and I was able to get up and walk again. People were starting to go into the cafe and eat a little. We went in just to sit in the chairs and chill after our wonderful nights sleep in the backend of a semi trailer. What the hell were we doing there? I can't answer that question but I find myself asking myself that question allot.

Around 6:30 which was 4.5 hours after we had arrived the bus started up and was ready to go to the border which opened up at 7:00am. Why the hell we waited there for that long was beyond me. Why we didn't leave three or four hours later is beyond me. It was Laos and I didn't try very hard to answer the questions I knew there was no answer too.

We reached the border sometime around 7:00 and got stamped out of Thailand. That process was interesting since we had to start using the old push and shove techniques we had learned in other countries. It was funny but next thing you know I was in the front of the line fighting off the locals who were reaching in to get their passport stamps. I felt right at home shoving them and using my backpack to shield. I'm big so I can hold off a good ten of those little nippers.

I finally got my passport in the door and grabbed a bunch of one's from the other backpackers on the bus. We got a pile together and dropped them in front of the guy. After about ten minutes he stamped ours and we were off. It was really funny to watch the other backpackers get walked over by the locals. They were little two foot high "Mun Chi Chi's" pushing over large European guys. They would make a funny face and look at them as they passed and went to the front. I on the other hand leaned into them and would have farted in their face had I had one in the chamber. It felt natural to me and it really showed how experienced we were compared to the other people.

After getting our passport we walked up the hill for about a half mile to reach the entry point for Vietnam. The two Japanese travelers we had met earlier were with us and I could tell they were experienced in this crap. They were moving fast just like us. We both understood that you need to move fast because if you don't there's a good chance you'll miss your bus or something like that. They don't care and they don't count. We had already given them our tickets which gave us absolutely no leverage and they had no problem leaving us in the dust. I had also read in the book that this happens to allot of people and I didn't want to be one of them.

We jumped in line at the Vietnamese check point and hoped for the best. Communist officers can be real power hungry dicks and we were Americans which didn't help at all. We filled out paperwork and handed in our passports. Sure enough I was the first and the guy started looking closely at my passport. Since there are so many stamps he was looking really closely. He started feeling the Brazilian visa which was a little funny and taped in. He also started looking at the Egyptian visa which were actual stamps we had to lick and place onto the passport. He spent about five minutes examining the passport and I hoped for the best. The Spanish guy next to me handed his passport to another guy and he began inspecting it. He asked in broken English for a ID card. The guy said all he had was the passport. The Vietnamese officer threw the passport back on the counter and said "No enter Vietnam" quickly and looked away. What a DICK. Fuck was I going to have the same trouble. I waited nervously. I didn't want to have to backtrack to Laos. That would really suck.

Luckily after a little bit he decided I was ok and stamped my passport. He also grabbed Ana's and did the same after some inspecting. Yeah we made it through ok. At least so far.

The Spanish guy was able to get through as well after he found his driver's license and gave it to the officer. The officer seemed to be sweating him like some kind of joke. He was laughing with his other friends. What a group of assholes. Fuck I hate those shits. In those moments I imagine coming in with a gun and blowing them all away and laughing at them. But that's only my Rambo side and in a few minutes I'm cooled down and back to normal.

After sending our bags through the scanner we headed outside to try and figure out if we were staying on the same bus or transferring onto a new one. We still didn't know what the hell we were doing and we stuck close with the two other Japanese guys that were headed to the same place we were. They seemed like pretty cool cats and in general I really like the Japanese people.

Sure enough we were transferred to another bus. The same damn bus I though we should have gone on in the first place. It was the grey bus that had "Hue" on the front. Ana and I had argued for about twenty minutes trying to figure out why we weren't on that bus. Those fucking dicks had lied to us to get us on their bus so they could make the money off us. If we had been on the other bus there would have been enough seats on the bus for everyone. FUCKKKKKKKKKK. I hate these little scandalous FUCKERS. Man I can't deal with these people anymore. I've been dealing with guys like that for a year and I just can't take it. God I wish I was in my country cause I'd kick their asses. But were in a Communist country where they hate American's and everyone is buddy's with everyone. Fuckers. Fuckers. Fuckers. Fuckers. Fuckers. Fuckers. Fuckers. Fuckers. Ok I feel better.

We got on the grey bus and I tried to settle down. I was pretty sure there were other people headed to Hue but about five minutes after we got on we were headed out. All the other people on the bus were locals and they had gotten threw all the visa crap quickly and I was glad we had done the same. I'm sure they would have left without us if we hadn't moved fast.

Later on we found out that the original bus we were on headed for Hanoi stayed at the border for three hours waiting for an American girl who had trouble with her visa. They said she needed to go back to Vientiane to get another visa. The one she had was bad but for two hundred dollars they would fix it. Those pricks were sweating her for money. Fucking dicks.

Anyway we were on our way towards Hue - or at least that's what we thought we were headed to. The bus ride to Hue ended up not being too bad and we were pretty much the only backpackers on the bus. We stopped in a couple places for food. In one of the places the younger looking Japanese guy had a kid come up and start massaging his shoulders. He didn't want it but was too nice to stop the kid so he sat there and let him go. He looked pretty bad but the Japanese guy just keep laughing and shrugging his shoulders. It was a really funny sight. At one point the kid stopped massaging and grabbed his neck and cranked it hard and to the left. There was a cracking noise followed by the Japanese guy saying "Uggggggghhhhhhh!". It was funny and the kid proceeded to crack his neck the other way. Ana and I just keep laughing.

We drove for the rest of the day till about 7:00 that night. The country was really beautiful to my surprise. I'm not sure what I expected but it wasn't that. There were TONS of rice fields and people working them by hand. They all had those little rice cone shaped hats and it was really cool to see. They use those hats all over the place and it was more like what I had expected to see in China. But we only saw those types of hats in the far South. Funny.

The one other thing that I noticed everywhere was the Vietnamese flag. It's a red flag with a huge yellow star in the middle. They had the flag everywhere and it almost seemed like the government made them put it there. That or the people are EXTREAMLY patriotic. I have a feeling it's a government thing because I must have seen a flag on at least every other building for the entire day.

Around 7:00pm the guy told us we were in Hue and to get off the bus. He said five minutes that way. We were in the middle of nowhere and we had to trust he wasn't lying to us. We got off and sure enough there were about ten guys on mopeds waiting for us. Damn it was an ambush and we were in trouble. The bus driver threw our bags in the street and zoomed off into the distance.

There we were in the middle of nowhere with moped drivers all over us like flies on shit. We tried to figure out where we were but they just keep grabbing our bags and putting them on their mopeds and telling us to jump on. We told them relax and tried to figure out where the hell we were and where we were going. They were saying it was five dollars to get into town. Idiots that would be twenty dollars for all of us. Fuck I could buy a moped for that.

Eventually the chaos and mopeds jackasses was too much and we decided we were going to walk to town with the other two Japanese guys. Of course the moped gang followed us and were being real assholes. I told Ana there was no way in hell I was going to give these guys money. Fuck them. I'd rather walk all night than pay them. She agreed.

As we started to walk we noticed a guy with a small truck. I motioned him to stop and started walking over to him. The guys on the mopeds swarmed him and started yelling at him to go away. WHAT DICKS! Little fuckers didn't want us talking to him and they were trying to scare him off. I was getting pretty pissed and shoved a couple of the little shits out of the way to talk with the driver. The whole scene was out of control and I was getting pissed. Eventually we yelled at each other for a while and the guy in the little truck left. They had scared him off by screaming at him. FUCKERS. Man I wish I had my mace out. I'd spray them in the face with it.

We started walking down the road and they continued to follow us and stop right in front of us. I told them to FUCK OFF! And there was no way in hell I was going to ride with them. That had no effect on them. Eventually as we kept walking a few of them took off realizing there was no way we were giving them business.

At one point a local bus slowed up and motioned him to stop and pull over. The moped dick headed straight for the drivers window and I headed straight for the door. The door opened and I jumped in. I was in and they would have to try and pull this two hundred pound corn feed American out the door. It would take about twenty of them to do that.

Eventually after some more screaming and chaos the driver shut the door and we were on our way. A couple times I started yelling really loud with my penetrating voice to just go and FUCK these other guys. The driver was confused but after negotiating six dollars for all of us to go to town we were on our way. HAAAA you fucking moped dicks. Take that. Man I was pissed. We had gone through twenty four hours of hell and we had to deal with this shit. I slept on a flat bed of a semi truck the previous night and I wasn't in the mood to deal with shit. I'm glad I didn't smack or punch anyone in that heated battle to get to town.

But we were on our way to the center and all was better. The driver and a couple passengers were laughing and I think they knew what we were fighting for. They seemed to be happy we told those guys to fuck off. They keep smiling and laughing. When we finally got to town we got off and the older guy shook all of our hands. It was pretty funny and I think he was telling us to keep fighting.

We were all pretty tired but still had a couple miles to walk to get to our hotel. I knew where we were from the bridges and the river and in no time we were headed to our part of the city. The Japanese guys were pretty amazed at how I knew where to go but I've had allot of experience with that and I'm pretty good at direction when it's logical. But if you give me names of streets and stuff I'm a gonner. That's where Ana comes in. She's great at that stuff.

Finally we made it to our part of town and found a hotel. It looked really nice and had AC, TV and hot water for eight dollars. That was a killer deal and we took it.

Ahhhhhhhhhhh the room was wonderful. Ana jumped in the shower and I followed her. Sure enough she had used all the hot water and I got a cold unsatisfying shower. Will this day never end?

It was around 9:00pm before we got out of the room and hit the town for dinner. I was preparing myself for a horrible dinner but in the end it turned out to be pretty damn good. I had a burger and a coke which they did a pretty good job on.

After our belly's were filled we headed back to the room to sleep on a real bed not a semi flat bed.










Mar 2
We both woke up pretty late and spent the morning chilling and trying to recharge our batteries. The television was great and a few hours of mindless staring was just the cure.

Around noon we rented a couple bikes from the local shop and hit the town. The town was absolutely covered from head to toe with mopeds and bicycles. They were everywhere and it was nuts. Bicycling though in the madness wasn't that bad since there were so many other bikes and there weren't that many large trucks.

We cycled past the massive Vietnamese flag in the heart of town and then into the Citadel walls. It was a pretty relaxing ride and we were enjoying ourselves. The nice thing about being on a bike is no one can bother you with "Want bicycle ride" or "motorcycle ride, good price". I was really enjoying that part of the trip.

Eventually we made our way to a little local museum we had heard about from some other people. As soon as you entered the gates you could see the tanks and armored vehicles displayed on the left. There were about six in total and they looked really cool. We wandered over on our bikes to check them out.

I grabbed the camera and started taking some photos and admiring the vehicles. The one thing that was really interesting was that the tanks weren't that badly damaged. They seemed to be really new which was unusual to see. It made sense since the war was only about thirty years before but it was a little disturbing to see. Many parts of the tanks were rusted but there were rubber hoses and things that were still in pretty good shape. That was weird to see and somehow made things seem more real. I've seen a ton of museums on this trip and they all seem to feel more like a movie than a real thing that happened. I always try to visualize what happened but somehow it always feels far from me. A world away. But when I was looking at those tanks it felt close. Seeing the painted "US ARMY" on the sides of the tank felt close. I think the fact that my dad was part of the war also brought the idea home. My dad never saw combat but he was stationed in Northern Thailand for a year. His life was affected by that war and that made it seem so personal to me.

As I wandered through the tanks a local guy on a moped drove up and started checking out the tanks as well. He looked Vietnamese to me and it was weird to watch him jump all over the tanks like a kid. These were my tanks. They were from my country and watching him look through them somehow burned something inside of me. They had our tanks on display like trophies. The language on the signs said something to the effect of "M4 tank won in victory over enemy". What the hell was that. It was really weird and gave me insight into how the people and the government thinks. The whole situation was weird and there was something I didn't like about it. Part of me wanted to take the tanks back home with me or destroy them. They didn't deserve them. It was a weird feeling being the country on display.

After the tanks we headed to the little museum inside. It didn't look like much but for a dollar to enter what the hell we'd check it out. Sure enough it turned out to be more interesting than it looked. On the right side they had the "museum" dedicated to the war. I was interested in seeing that and really interested in seeing how they see the war.

Sure enough it only took about two minutes for me to start becoming really pissed off and disturbed. They had images all over the place with titles that were ridiculous. There were pictures of Vietnamese guys holding human heads and the description said "Here are the American enemy playing games with North Vietnamese heads". It fucking pissed me off and I couldn't believe the shit I was seeing. America is no saint but the shit they were saying was TOTALLY and one hundred percent biased. Everything was about how the South was so bad and how America was so bad as well. I'm sure we have blood on our hands but FUCK that museum. I've never been so pissed off in my life. I left after a little bit and was mad that I actually gave money to support that shit. I actually was starting to not like the idea that I was giving any money to Vietnam.

In the end when I cooled off I was glad I went to that museum. It challenged my views and helped me to understand more of how things work. I'm sure I'll be digesting those feeling for some time. I just don't know how I feel about this place yet. We'll see.

After the museum we headed to grab some noodles at a local little place. They turned out to be pretty good and we scarfed them down with a few cokes.

After lunch we headed to the Imperial palace to check it out. It ended up not being that interesting and not really worth the money. It reminded me allot of a Chinese temple with a slight twist.

With the day pretty much shot we headed back to the hotel and dropped off the bikes. Dinner was pretty swell and in the evening we spent some time watching the only English channel we got on our TV - HBO.












Mar 3
We woke up at a decent time to grab a moped and see a couple sites around town. As soon as we hit the hotel lobby we were being bombarded by idiots on their bikes trying to rent their mopeds to us. We wanted to just rent a moped from a credible place but we spent about the next hour walking around trying to find that place. Of course we couldn't find anything and all we did was get harassed to death by the FUCKING VENDORS. I swear I'm about to punch one of these guys in the face. I can't take it. I'm sure the vendors are going to be the reason we leave this country early. They are pure fucking assholes.

After getting fired up we headed to a local restaurant to get a coke. I couldn't take it anymore and all of them seemed to be running some kind of scam. Every time they say "Yes we have motorcycle". Then they call their buddies on the phone and have them come over. Fuck is there anyone with a real deal not some set up tourist scam!!!

In the end I was just to pissed off and told Ana I didn't want to see the dumb ass attractions around town. It was only a stupid pagoda which we've seen a hundred of and the tombs were probably gay as well. Screw it I'd rather just sit in my room with the TV. The only place in all of Vietnam I could relax and not have vendors in my face.

She agreed and we both just headed to the local internet shops to put in a little time emailing, reading the news, and catching up on our blogs.

The evening was pretty unexciting. Another day behind enemy lines.











Mar 4
We woke up early and got ready for out 8:00am bus. I was pretty excited to get out of that city and looked forward to more chaos and annoying venders in the upcoming city of Hoi An.

We sat downstairs waiting for the bus till 9:00 when our hotel manager said “sorry no bus for today, you have to take the 2:00 bus”. FUCK I knew it. Oh man I was sure I was going to hate every second of traveling on buses in Vietnam. Shit!

Luckily we’ve learned some tips since we’ve been traveling. One was if you don’t know where to book tickets and they all look the same book with your hotel. Why? Because as soon as we missed the bus he said we could go back to our air-conditioned, cable TV room to wait for the supposed 2:00 bus. We had leverage and since the service was bad he could offer us something. If we had gone with the vendors on the street they just smile and say “Sorry, cime bak at two”.

So we sat and watched some TV and I tried to keep my blood pressure down. What could I do. Eventually we headed back downstairs to wait another hour for a supposed bus to come. Sure enough the bus finally showed up and we were on our way.

The bus was jam packed with funny looking tourist. Luckily Ana and I look really cool and nothing like the other funny looking people.

The bus ride was only a little less than four hours but it seemed to take pretty long. The AC on the bus didn’t really work and I was sweating like a Israeli in a crowded market. But I tried to think cool thoughts like drinking a cold Pepsi or riding down the street in a Ferrari with a couple hot chicks in the back. Those thoughts helped and eventually close to dusk we hit town. I knew we were in town not because we were at a bus station but because we were at a hotel. The driver stood up and said we are in Hoi An and you can come to check out this hotel. If you like you can stay and if not we take you too another hotel. Screw that crap. We grabbed our bags and hit the streets.

After walking about twenty minutes we made it to the hotel part of town and I sat down for some iced coffee and Ana went to go check out the hotels. It was nice to be the sheriff of the bags while Ana went to various hotels asking if they had room and walking up all the stairs to see the rooms.

In the end we found a pretty nice place that would work for the night. The TV only had local channels and that was a sure sign we were headed out the next day. But for one night it would work.

For dinner we found a local place with food that tasted pretty pour. But it was food in our stomachs and that’s all we needed for the night.

We crashed on our hard foam beds for the night.






Mar 5 – 10
I’m going to shorten the next five days since there pretty damn boring. Basically we came to Hoi An to get some tailor made suits and clothing done up for us. We spent most of our time doing just that. Five days may seem like allot but when you have to find the right tailor in over two hundred shops and then pick the material and be fitted several times it really burns the days.

In the end Ana and I spent over five hundred dollars getting two suits, nine shirts, four pants, two skirts, a dress and two pair of shoes made. A large pile of junk we had to send to the post office. We also bought eighty dollars worth of DVD’s, which will be sent home as well. Man I hope all that junk makes it to my home and not the home of some Vietnamese punks. We’ll see.

The town is a cute little town and not so massive and grandiose as Hue. It’s got an old small feel to it and we spent many afternoons just walking around or riding our rusty old bikes down its streets. To my surprise we didn’t get hurt which on these roads is a pretty lucky think to say.

One thing we also did which I enjoyed was that we headed to a local Buddhist temple to light some incense. Actually we light a whole pack of incense and it smoked out the temple pretty good. We looked like amateurs trying to light the sticks as the ashes would fall and burn our hands. But in the end we got the incense up in front of three Buddha’s and prayed for a young healthy baby. Yeah that’s what I said we want to have a baby. Ever since the end of the trip I’ve been really looking forward to the next part of my life. Having my travel bug out of the way has really opened up my eyes and created a gap for the rest of my life. I want some little babies and this was the first time we both really did something other than talk about it. It was a nice moment and I hope Buddha, God, or whoever is looking over blesses us with a happy healthy child.

Talking with our tailor “Tung” gave us the idea to go to the temple. She said a member of the Rolls Royce family prayed in that temple and shortly after found out they were pregnant. They had been trying for a couple years so it was a big surprise to them. If they can do it why not us? That’s why we bought some incense and a lighter and hit the temple. We want a little baby and I have a feeling if were lucky enough to have one it’s going to be a girl. Little Sophia will be her name.

Babies and mushy stuff aside the town was pretty laid back and fun. We didn’t do much other than buy cloths but to me that was just fine.





Mar 11
We woke up early to catch out bus to the airport. I wasn’t too sure about the flight but what the heck it would save us 24 hours on a dumb ass train. I was excited about this since in the past we would have taken the train and saved those twenty extra dollars. But the trip was almost over and we were riding in style. The plane it was and we were in the back of a old taxi headed there in no time.

The trip to the airport went pretty smooth and we waited in the small terminal with a bunch of other tourist for about an hour before the plane showed up. We were taken to the plane in a bus that looked pretty sharp. I was impressed and was glad we weren’t being taken to plan in a donkey and cart.

Once we got to the plane there was the usual mad tourist rush for our assigned seats. Got to love that. But I was in front politely pushing people out of the way and telling Ana to hurry up.

The plane from the outside didn’t look too good. It was kind of dirty and looked old. Once we got to the seats and sat down I realized that this plane sucked. They seats were made for midgets like the buses. In all the traveling I’ve done I’ve never seen a plane like this one. I couldn’t believe it, this plane was a piece of shit. I wiggled my way into the seat near the window and I barely fit with my knees pressed firmly against the seat in front of me. I was so tight the seat actually fell forward. What the hell was that? To top things off the window shades on the three windows near me were either cracked or starting to fall off. This plane was in the worst condition I’ve ever seen a plane this large. It was bad and that didn’t make me feel better.

Eventually the plane filled up to it’s limit with annoying tourist and we were headed to the runway. Man I’m starting to really hate this country and cant wait to get out. If we survived to Saigon (or the more currently correct name “Ho Chi Minh City” or for short HCMC) it was only a few more days and I was gone. That was a nice thought.

Once on the runway I must say I was a little nervous. I don’t like the idea of a crappy plane on take off. If something goes wrong on the take off were dust. Luckily the hunk of junk made it into the sky and soon enough we had enough altitude to at least make a proper crash landing.

The flight in general went pretty well. I had forgotten to take my Dramamine till the last minute so I decided to just skip it and not worry. It was only an hour long flight and how bad could that be?

Of course the only flight in about ten years I’ve taken without Dramamine started getting shaky on landing. FUCK. I saw there was a barf bag in the broken seat pocket in front of me and that gave me a good feeling. If I had to get rid of my breakfast I ate least had a take away bag close.

On landing for some reason the pilot cruised at a low altitude for about twenty minutes turning and moving all over the place. Of course my stomach didn’t like that and neither did my mind as I heard the engine constantly being brought up and down. It seemed like the pilot didn’t really know what he was doing and was just following the curvy rivers below.

My stomach started gurgling and moving about ten minutes before we landed. Man I was happy once we finally touched the ground. That plane is a crash landing waiting to happen and I was glad we weren’t any part of it. We taxied to our area and were let off the plane and back on sweat Vietnamese ground. Thank Buddha.

We got our bags and headed out into the crowd of touts to grab a taxi. Luckily in HCMC they have taxi’s with actual meters. Man it was great. We just got in and told him our hotel. Then with no arguing, fighting, teeth pulling, frowning, or farting in the cab and leaving we were on our way. The numbers on the meter keep adding till right around eight thousand penis, I mean schlongs, no wait ... oh yeah eighty thousand dongs we were there – backpacker city. I dropped Ana in the local internet place and used my large nose to smell out the best deal in town. Sure enough I found us a sweat little gem nearby. I went back and grabbed Ana and we moved in to our new home for a few nights immediately.

After putting my toothbrush in the toothbrush holder and my velvet robe, slippers, and cigar near the bed we headed out to grab some grub. Not any grub but KFC grub. That’s right we had spotted that fast food goddess on the way in and we were headed directly for with our laser beams locked.

It took about two minutes to order some grilled up bird, biscuits, and a coke. Five minutes later we were walking it to our table and ten minutes after that it was in my lower intestine being processed. Buuurrrrp…Auggghhhh. Yeah baby that hit the spot.

With our digestive system well lubricated we decided we’d walk around the city a little and check out what it had to offer. The motorcycle traffic in the city was unbelievable. There were seven million motorcycles in the city and only six and a half million people. The traffic was a sight to be seen. Every time the light turned red about five cars and at least two hundred motorcycles would build up till it turned green again. Than like a mass of pissed off bees they’d all fly out into the intersection when the light turned green. Because the other traffic usually ignored the lights this meant there was a wad of people going all different directions in the middle of the street. It took about a minute to untangle the wad and get it going smoothly. About then the light would turn again and the maze of chaos would start again. Capital N – Nuts.

After walking for a while we decided we had enough for the day and retreated back to our room. We were tired of the chaos and just wanted to relax for a while. It didn’t take long to fall asleep that night.
















March 12
We didn’t have much planned for the day so we decided to relax and sleep in for the morning. It was great to relax and I tried to enjoy the peace and quiet that soon would be gone. We were headed back to reality soon and these magic quiet mornings were soon to be nothing but a memory.

Around noon we decided to try and walk to the Reunification Palace. This was the sight where the famous photo of the tank crashing through the gates to end the war was shot. It was a visual end to a long and bloody battle for Americans.

The palace wasn’t much to see but none the less interesting. It was a historic place and I felt like I needed to see it since I was there. The weather was getting pretty hot and we decided we’d run down the street and find a place to eat.

After walking around for a little while we found a little local place that looked like it served good “Pho”, a local famous noodle soup. We ordered up and a couple of not so clean looking bowls of food came out. The food ended up tasting pretty swell and was nice and light.

After eating we still had a little time to burn till the museum nearby opened. We decided to try a Mocha Coffee drink from the local fancy pants place. The drink was expensive but oh so good. They had little mist sprayers going and it really helped to offset the intense heat.

We chilled and drank our coffee for about half an hour before heading back to the “War Remminants Museum”. They changed the name from the “Chinese American War Crimes Museum” to get more tourists to go there. Nice change jackasses.

Despite the for sure slanted views and idiotic videos I was sure too see I still wanted to go to the museum. We paid our “Dong” for the tickets and walked in. By the way what kind of dumb ass name is that for money? Obviously it must mean something different in their language. Whatever.

On the inside of the museum were tons of tourist all flocked around the few American tanks they had their. I still don’t know what the hell happened to any of their machines. They seem to only show our tanks. I actually am interested in seeing what they used to fight the war. But the only thing I saw of theirs was AK-47’s and maybe a couple land mines.

Can you tell I’m a little pissed about the whole museum thing? I think in the end I kind of like the country and it’s people. It’s hard to see past my anger, the over worn tourist trail and the damn vendors. But past that from what I can see is a pretty expressive, ingenious, and strong people. Now back to the bitching.

The first area of the museum was packed with tourist and contained walls filled with photos. Almost all the photos were donated from America and given great little headlines like “Here are the American forces killing people for games and fun” and shit like that. The images were AMAZING but the copy was ridiculous.

In the end there were about four large rooms displaying photos from the war. They mostly seemed to be taken from an American vantage point then skewed copy underneath. Great stuff. Got to hand it those Communist they know how to control their people and all the information they receive.

There were pictures of civilians that were caught in the cross fire of war. Many were ruthless shots showing the reality of what a napalm bomb can do or what happens to people that are sprayed with agent orange. They also showed allot of the deformities that happened to people who had lived in the areas that were sprayed. Tough but real.

We also got to see some of the famous Tiger Cages and different guns used for the war. On leaving the museum I was happy I went and at the same time pissed. I gave money to support something so dumb but at the same time I wanted to see it for myself. This country has been really bi-polar for my emotions.

After the museum we headed across the street to see the moderately impressive Post Office and Cathedral. After that we taxied back to our hotel area and walked around for a while. We looked at some of the local paintings and got some new prescription lenses for Ana’s glasses.

The night was pretty casual and ended like so many other night with us eating some sort of treat in front of the television.











March 13
We woke up early to catch our tour bus to the local Cu Chi tunnels. I wasn’t happy to be on a large bus with a sticker on my shirt but it was the only way to see the tunnels and it was what I had to do.

The first stop on the bus full of idiot tourist was a factory that made lacquer paintings with eggs and shells imbedded in them. It was a massive tourist trap and all the buses pilling in could barely fit. I was so happy I could hardly hold it in.

The tour showing us how they made things was a little interesting and of course ended with a walk through the tourist shop where you could buy the stuff that all the people were making. Wonderful. I had to hold myself back from buying the entire store.

Finally we got back on the bus and headed to the tunnels and the original thing I had paid to see. It took about an hour and a half to finally arrive at the tunnels. We all jumped off and headed right to the movie room to watch a brilliantly produced video straight from the jackass Vietnamese government.

The video talked about how amazing the tunnels were and how the world envied them. They were the strongest people and with their hands behind their back fought and killed off the oppressive American forces. They did nothing to the Americans and were defenseless. Their people were all hero’s and all fought because they wanted to. A single women killed ten Americans by herself. She was like Rambo. She didn’t even look like she could shoot the guy she was carrying. The video was a joke and people were talking and laughing while it was playing, including me.

Idiotic video aside we headed to the field to see the real tunnels. The first stop was the small tunnels built during the French invasion. They were pinche tiny. About three feet by two feet. When they moved in those holes they crawled on their hands and knees. It was impressive and I was getting claustrophobic just looking into the end of the tunnels. I was impressed and had to hand it to those people. They had really become human moles. I guess you can get used to allot when your exposed to it for so long.

The second exhibits were of the types of traps they made in the ground for the forces coming in. They were pretty gruesome and reminded me of the kind of traps you would set to catch animals. Some designs were simple spikes in the ground and others were more advanced with rolling spikes on wheels and things like that. Pretty rough.

The next stop on the tour was the stop I had been waiting for. I could hear the gun range in the distance and the guns being fired were not small. They were big and it for all the world sounded like a war zone. It was cool to hear and really gave the entire site a feeling of what war must have sounded and felt like.

Once at the range the tour guide asked which guns we wanted to fire the M-60, AK-47, M-16, etc. I was like a kid in a candy store. I always wanted to fire these larger guns but never really had the chance. I jumped in line and got ten rounds for the M60, and ten rounds for the M-16.

They lead me down to the range and loaded the M-60 first. The percussion of the other guns firing was loud. I grabbed the gun that was semi mounted to the wall and squeezed the trigger. Bam! Bam! The first two rounds came out. Hell Yeah that was cool. I continued to squeeze off the next ten rounds with a big smile on my face. Man that was cool.

Next was the M-16. I was interested in firing this gun because it was the gun of the American’s and the gun my dad carried. The rounds from this gun were pretty smooth. They were powerful but smooth. I was able to look through the site and have some sense of accuracy while shooting at the targets on the hillside. It was a nice experience and I felt like I could identify better with the people who had fought their.

The first rounds went pretty fast so I decided to grab ten more rounds on the M-60 and five more for the AK-47. All the ammo so far added up too forty six American dollars but it was worth every penny.

The ten rounds in the M-60 went pretty fast and I even got Ana to go down near the gun and shot a little video. She was pretty terrified of the guns and it took allot to get her down there. The AK-47 was also pretty sweat and the rounds were much more brut force in nature. I could tell the difference in the guns and I must say I prefer the M-16 over the AK-47. It just seems more accurate and smooth from distance and distance is what I would want in war.

By the end of the gun range I was sweating like a dog. The heat was pretty intense and I was all excited. We headed to the local entrance to the tunnel system and this was our chance to go in it ourselves. I was pretty excited to give the tunnels a try.

Sure enough the tour guide said here’s the entrance go ninety meters that way and that’s the exit. There are two other exits at the thirty and sixty meter marks.

I jumped in line and before you know it I was underground bent over sweating like a dog in the poorly light caves. They were about three and a half feet tall so walking was rough. They also curved about every four feet which didn’t help. There were a ton of people in the tube and it started getting a little claustrophobic. I made my way through till the thirty meter tunnel and decided I had enough. I was getting dirty and sweating like a mother f-er. Because there was no light I imagined I was making mud all over my body. I had gotten the experience and a new found respect for the people who lived in these tunnels. There some crazy mo foes.

It was nice to pop out into the daylight heat and be out of the tunnels. I was drenched and dirty but alive. I tried to cool down in the shade but that didn’t work too well. I just keep sweating and I felt like a pig. I’m sure I smelled like one as well.

That was the end of the tour and I must say it was pretty cool and terribly queso-ie. But for four dollars what could I expect. Our ride home went pretty smooth and we got back to the city sometime around 1:00 pm. We decided to take a break till later that day when the sun started setting.

Once we hit the town again we headed directly to the glasses place to check out Ana’s new eyes. They looked pretty good we ordered another new pair for her. They would be ready the next day.

After glasses we headed to the painting area to haggle and finally walk away with a nice large painting of a Vietnamese girl for forty dollars. A little expensive but a nice painting.

Dinner was at the local place where we got some Saigon pizza. It turned out to be pretty killer and we were excited. It tasted pretty much like what you would expect from back home.

After dinner we hit the rice sack early. We were going on another tour the next day and had to be up early again.














March 14
We got our butts out of bed yet another time early to catch a tourist bus. Man what can I say were living the life.

Once on the four wheeled tourist mobile it took about two hours to reach the Mekong Delta. That’s where the Mekong finally reaches the ocean after traveling from Tibet, China, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, then Vietnam. It was all pretty unexciting and the only reason I was there was because Ana wanted to go.

The first thing we did was jump on a large local boat and cruise down the river. It was pretty nice but nothing spectacular. We then jumped onto a smaller boat to go deeper into the mainland and see the place where they made coconut candy ..ohhhhhhh.

Once through the cheesy tour we got to sample the candy which was pretty good. So good we picked up a little pack of them for later. The candy tour was over and we were back onto a small boat then back onto the large boat where we went to yet another island to eat lunch.

Lunch was pretty good and was a large plate of fried yellow noodles with vegetables. It’ll do little donkey.

After lunch we got back on our boat then transferred to yet another smaller paddle boat. With our Vietnamese lice infested tourist hats on we headed again into the mainland down a small river passageway covered in palm trees.

We then got to taste some local fruits that were pretty un-amazing and listen to some local music that sounded like to wet cats fighting. Lovely.

Then back on yet another boat that took us back to our bus and then back to the city. The day was way to exciting and I had to try not to write more than thirty pages just on this exciting day.

Being back in town was nice and I was starting to get tired of the crowds, tourist, and crap. It was time to head to the glasses store get Ana’s new glasses and head out. I was ready to hit the room, pack and enjoy what was left of the day.

Of course things had to go sour. When we picked up Ana’s glasses they felt a little funny to her. But she didn’t think much of it and we paid the full amount and took them. As we started walking around the streets she said something was wrong with them and they were giving her a headache after only ten minutes. Shit.

We headed back to the store to see what we could do. Of course we got the run around and the head guy didn’t want to give us our money back. In the end we got in a pretty heated debate over him taking back the lenses and giving us our money back. He kept saying the measurements were right and he didn’t know why it was wrong. It was a frustrating time and both Ana and I were head to head with this guy. Finally after about twenty minutes of arguing and me threatening to stand outside his office the next day and divert all foreign business he gave us our money back. I took the money and we headed out. He didn’t seem like a bad guy it was just a bad situation.

Dinner was at a local fast food place called “Lotaria”. I even got in a little scuffle with the idiot girl at the counter. I was simply trying to ask her if the image in the picture was chicken. She was so stupid and keep repeating me. FREEAKKKIN FRACKKKKIN I’m so tired of idiot people. I’m just done.

Luckily our burgers were really good and that helped ease the tension. Finally we made it back to our room packed and laid down. I was proud of the way Ana and I had fought for our money that night. Were not the same people that started this trip. Were tougher and more expressive and I like that.

Falling asleep was easy since I knew once I did the next things was morning and the bus out of that stinking country and into another sticking county that was at least new.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Ana_Cambodia (Phnom Penh)

Day 60 – Day 62 (March 15-17)
Only 6 hours to Phnom Penh. I was mentally prepared to lower my standards. Everyone that I’ve talked to said they didn’t care for Cambodia. Very hot, dusty and poor. I could see all three right when we crossed the border. The border crossing went smoothly. We actually had a bus attendant to collect the passport for us and get our visas. So it wasn’t too bad. The bus had AC and the actually gave us sandwiches for breakfast with water. Fancy pants! Great service. Arrived in Phnom Penh in the middle of the day right at 1pm. The sun was beaming. As soon we got out we got bombarded with tuk tuk drivers wanted to take us into town. We hid out in the office until some of them actually left. I asked the bus attendant how much a ride should cost in town around $2US for both.

Tim was the one that looked for a hotel. The first one we had in mind “California2 Hotel” was full. I waited with the bags and had a coke. While I waited a cute girl was tying to sell copy of guidebooks. I kept telling her I had one already. But she stuck around and ended up talking to her for a little bit. She was cute and very smart for an eight year old.

Our room was nice for $18US had ac and TV. Can’t complaint. I’m really enjoying staying in our own room with ac. I need it to survive the heat. To my surprise the US dollars for everything. In the hotels, restaurants, stores all the prices are in USD. When we pulled out money it was all dollars. It’s funny that in Cambodia you can use our currency. Prices for food are a bit high compared to Vietnam and Laos. Even the local food a plate of noodles or fried rice is the same price as getting a chicken sandwich $3US. It’s still cheap compare to some places in the US. But is up there. At least so far the food has been really tasty. Tim got his hair cut real short. Like army short. It looks good. I like it. We didn’t do much the first day just begged and went for a walk along the river around sunset. It was a bit disturbed. I looked to my right and I saw nice rows of beautiful hotels with nice restaurant and I looked to my left and I saw kids with no shoes eating from the garbage. Also saw much more beggars and people with deformities. It was sad to see so big of a gap between the rich and the poor. Still more sad was to visit the Tuol Sleng Museum and Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. HORRIBLE! I couldn’t understand how one human being can be so cruel and torture so many people. At the Tuo Sleng Museum which is the actual prison were thousands and thousands of innocent people were tortured. It was a high school the Pol Pots turned into a prison. Walking to the different classrooms and just getting a glimpse of what actually happen and the how much people suffered it was disgusting. At times I wanted to throw up and even cry. Just to imagine it! Out of 20,000 people brought to this prison from doctors, to farmers to children and even their own people only 7 survive. They took photographs of every person captured and the tortures they did to them. It was gruesome! I couldn’t even look at all them. The mug shots of the people were striking. Just they way they were starring at the camera. Very deep and disturb looks. I kept taking breaks outside for some air. Couldn’t take seeing so much cruelty actually happened. To end the depressing day we made it to the killing field and saw the pits were thousands of people including children were thrown and executed.

We made back to the city right before sunset. We went to the room and watched TV for a little bit. Ended up eating Mexican for dinner. Wow! It was tasty. Not quite the same as Mexican food back home but pretty close. It makes it even tastier knowing we’re in Cambodia.

Today is our last day in the city. We’re leaving tomorrow to Siem Reap to see the famous Angkor wat. Earlier today we visited the royal palace. It was really nice. Very similar to the one in Bangkok. Only manage to walk for around an hour. The heat was melting us away. I don’t sweat but here I’m sweating like crazy even in the shade. I think is the humidity. They say Siem Reap is even hotter than here. I got a hair cut too. I like it. Now I can say I got a haircut in Cambodia. It sounds very exotic. While I was getting a haircut the previous king’s wife came in for a haircut too.

We’re here blogging away and waiting for the sun to go down. The last thing we’ll do here is go the Russian market. They say you can find cheap stuff. Not like we need more crap to take home. But might as well if is good and inexpensive.

Ana_Vietnam

Hue
Day 45 – Day 47 (March 1-3)
We're currently in Vietnam. Love the scenery, don't like the vendors. Specifically the motor-taxis. They drive me nuts. Today looking to rent a motorbike. We got so pissed off that didn't end up renting one. I know Tim was more pissed than me this time. We soon learned there was no renting place it was just you ask anywhere with a sign that said "Rent Motorcycles" and the call one of the annoying guys on the street and let you borrow their bike for the day. I thought it was scam. We did go to different places to ask. They all seem to work together and had a few guys follow us in their motorcycle. Finally Tim was pissed off big time. He looked like he was ready to punch someone. I was calmer. Believe it or not. Don't get me wrong the tiger was out but tamed. We decided to stay and catch up on our blog. Which I'm dreading big time. For some reason I hate going so far back in the trip with details. It doesn't come out the same. It feels like work. I'm trying my best to just go with the flow and write. I keep thinking it has to be a certain way. But I keep snapping out of it. After all is my blog and I can say whatever I want to. Plus I keep thinking in few years it would be fun to read some of the details I might have forgotten.

BTW the bus ride from Laos to here, Hue was a nightmare! First we didn't know if we had the right bus. When we bought the tickets we were told the bus was going straight to Hue. We got picked up late to begin with then taken to the bus station. This annoying driver was telling to get on the bus that had a big sign HANOI. Not our place. He kept assuring it was the right bus. Although next to it was the bus with the sign HUE. He said that bus wasn't leaving today. Another local passenger got involved and told us that at the border we would switch buses. I didn't trust one bit. But what can you do you're there and either go back to town and tried to figure out or hope for the best. So we did. Got on the bus, which were mainly backpackers. Finally around 7pm the bus took off with four people with no seats. It was a scandal. One of the girls was Israeli she was yelling to the driver trying to get a seat. No luck she had to sit in the aisle, lucky Tim, right next to him. The VIP bus had no AC. It was soooooo stuffy. Good thing I opened my window. We had our first break around 9pm. Good to stretch out. About 2am the bus stopped again. This time for five hours. No communication whatsoever. The driver just took a nap on his seat. It was so stuffy inside the bus that we ended up taking a nap outside on the back of semi-truck flat bed trailer. (Tim had to tell me the name of this truck). Anyway we snuggled up with one sleeping bag. I was able to fall asleep for a while. I woke up all scared thinking the bus had left. My arm was so numb from sleeping on one side. Finally we left to the border. Arrived around 7am. Not order. Waited in like a bunch of bees hovering the honeycomb. The locals were trying to squeeze in and push their way in. Finally we all made a barricade for them not to pass. A local in front of me pointed out to pass along the passport to the window. So we did collect our passport and just put them on the pile. Lucky us we were one of the first ones to get stamped out. Walked across to the Vietnam side. Had to pay for everything to get the stupid custom paper and get the entry stamp. The officer kept starring at Tim's passport for a while. But finally stamped us through. Good thing we were the first ones again. Asking around we found our bus and pretty much left soon after that. I felt relieved to know we were not stuck at the border. The bus was full of locals except another two really nice Japanese travelers. Long bus ride. Beautiful scenery along the way. I saw tons of ladies with the straw pointy hats working on the rice fields. It seemed something out of a movie. People seemed friendly and a bit more expressive than the Lao people. Got dropped off outside of town. I hate when that happens you get to a new town and you don't know where you are. You have a map of the town but have not idea where in the hell you are in relationship to the map. Right when we got off we got bombarded by the lovely motorcycle guys. We kept looking for a "tuk tuk" better since it can fit more people. I for sure don't like the idea of riding on the back of motorcycle with a big backpack. Plus it will be more expensive with two. I tried to ask at the nearby gas station. But no one would help the annoying motor guys kept hovering over trying to get our business. We decided to start walking and see what we could find along the way. We did get dropped off like 10 km away from downtown. The stupid guys kept following us. I told Tim there is no way I was getting on the bikes. The other two Japanese guys walked with us too. We did see a tuk tuk parked so we walk towards it. The 4 motor guys followed us and started insulting the driver. I couldn't believe it. I was boiling inside. How dare them to insult the poor guy just because they didn't get our business. We kept on walking. Finally a smaller local bus stopped. Now they were talking to the driver trying to get commission. I was furious. I looked at the driver and told him "NO COMISSION. WE PAY YOU NOT THEM." It looked like he was pulling money out to give them some. Tim and I screamed "NO." I was so mad. The tiger, lion, leopard, jaguar you name it in me came out. I can they expect to make business like that with threats and sleaziness. I know they need the money but that's not the way to go. The bus did drop us near town. Still had to walk like 15 minutes. Finally we found a nice hotel with AC and TV. The night was going to end on a good note.

Today we're still in Hue. We leave tomorrow for Hoi An. About 4 hours south from here. We plan to stay few days and possible get some clothes made. This place is known for that and is suppose to be good quality at a cheap price we'll see.



Hoian
Day 47 - Day 55 (March 4-10)
Had to wait for the 2pm bus instead of the 8am. Tim was pissed we had to wait. The story was it broke down after telling us for almost two hours of waiting the bus was coming in 2 minutes. I think the bus was full and since we were the last ones to get picked up tough luck. Good thing that the guy at the reception let us stayed in our room for free until it was time to go. He kept apologizing to us since we bought the tickets from him. But we made it to Hoian finally in the afternoon.

One of the main attractions in this city is you can get clothes made for cheap. Anything you want except bras. We plenty of things made. It so nice to have pants made and they're long and not "cruza charco" just short. It was hard to pick materials for stuff. But believe it or not it took us all these days to get everything made. The place we went with it really great. The cute owner, Thung is really nice and knows her stuff. You tell her what you want and she'll make it happen. Everything is made fast but good. We ordered something in the morning and at night we were back trying it on. I loved the fact she didn't mind making any alterations. I wanted it shorter, she'll make it shorter. I wanted it smaller she'll make smaller. I think she had fun with us as much as we enjoyed working with her. Tim will make jokes and she'll crack up. Her English is very good. We liked everything so much that we took notes how to measure for a suit specifically. In case we want to order more once we get home.

It has been a fun town. I loved the fact walking by the same places. Some of the locals are starting to recognize our faces that when we walk by they say "helloooo." We keep going back to the same restaurant and they already know what I want to drink. We keep buying water and ice cream from the same adorable lady. I keep noticing the locals’ everyday life. Like yesterday nearby our hotel they were having a birthday party for a little boy. They had a long table set up with like 15 kids around it and they were anxiously waiting for their bowl of noodles. They were excited to get the food. It's so funny back home the kids would eat things like pizza or hot dog at the birthday part. It was neat to see. How a different culture celebrates the same occasion.

Oh, one of the best lines I've heard in a while. This kid about 8 years old approached me on the streets asking for money saying politely but in a charming way "Madame, give me some money..." I responded "No Thank you sweety." And his slick response was "COME ON BABY, just give me some money." I wanted to die. It was the cutest thing I've heard so far. Another cute incident I was waiting for Tim outside a gallery and this little boy comes near me holds my hand and just kissed it. I did melt. He was about 3 years old. How adorable.

This town is the definitely a charmer. I loved watching the school girls riding the bicycles with their long white silky dresses blowing in the wind. The older ladies walking with the cone shape hats in their pajamas looking outfits and the crazy motorcycle drivers passing by without crashing with each other.

We finally leave on Sunday. We're flying to Saigon just an hour a way. Instead of taking the 24 hour train ride. I'm so glad we're living it up a little more this last part of the trip. The idea of a long train ride makes me clinch. We still have a few train/bus rides to go but not that far.

On the last day we finally made it down to the local beach only few miles a way from downtown. We rented bicycles. It was a nice ride. Loved seeing the many rice fields along the way. The architecture of the homes is pretty neat too. Very narrow at least three stories building. The style is very modern a bit deco I think and painted with bright or pastel colors. Loved the palm trees too. I’m tropical girl. I like the hot climates and palm trees is one of my favorite reminder of the hot weather. The beach was actually pretty nice. Nicer than I expected. No clear waters but still nice to sit and relax right before sunset. We sat for a little before getting tired of the vendors. They kept coming with a basket full of stuff from cigarettes to pineapples. One of the lines was “ONE PINEAPPLE A DAY, KEEPS THE DOCTOR AWAY.” I thought that was pretty funny. Another teenager approached me trying to sell a bracelet. He seemed really nice at first and spoke good English. I started a conversation. Bad idea! Wouldn’t go away. I finally had to ignore him since a friendly no thank you wasn’t enough. One of his many lines was “OPEN YOUR HEART, OPEN YOUR WALLET.” I asked him were his was from meaning the town and his response was “FROM MY MOM.” Sassy pants! It was nice chatting with him though.

Nice way to end our last day in Hoian. =)



Ho Chin Minh City/A.K.A Saigon
Day 55 – Day 60 (March 11–15)
Couldn’t believe it in one hour we were in Saigon. Just to get this out of the way. The city’s name changed to Ho Chi Minh in 1975 after the north won and took power in the south. But the originally name and what the locals still called is Saigon. So Saigon and Ho Chin Minh – same same. The flight itself was a little bumpy. I was glad to land safely. Tim pointed out the plane was a bit old and rusty. Not a good sign. But we made it.

Downtown area was nuts. More motorcycles than cars. One lane for cars and two or three for the motorcycles. Watching the motorcycles storm by and cross it each other was one of my favorite thins here. Crazy! They don’t look to their left or right they just go. They don’t care. To cross the streets it was the same thing. We had to just go. And don’t wait until traffic slows down. Because it never does. Good thing with too people we make a bigger wall so they have to go around us. It was like the game frogger.

We ended staying three full days. One day we went to the war museum. The photographs were amazing. I was left with how much war really SUCKS! The images displayed on the museum captured the feelings and just the humane part a war. Both sides suffer and it’s sad. I couldn’t look at all the photographs it was too gruesome. But I got the story just by seeing the images. Interesting! The next day we signed up for a tour around the Cu Chi tunnels. Gosh, talk about misery. I wasn’t able to get in the tunnels to narrow and claustrophobic. I panic but just looking at it. The tunnels were originally made to hide out from the French in the 50’s and later they added more tunnels during the Vietnam war/American war. Oh, that is another fact. In school I learned it as Vietnam War but here is the American war. Same same but different name! Sorry that saying is rubbing off. Not sure where it started, I think Thailand. The use that line a lot here in South East Asia – SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT. Back to the tunnels – they were expanded to be more than 250 kilometers. They had different levels. But the first level was 3 meter deep. A total 16,000 people actually lived there during the time of the war. I don’t know how the American soldiers managed to squeezed in through there with all the gear on. The area that is open to the tourist and you can actually walk through is only 90 meters. Tim only did 30 meters he said it was so hot and stuffy and he got the idea. Plus our group was around 40. I waited for him at the end. No way in hell! I tried to get in and I was already freaking out. I don’t know how these people manage to live there. The breathing holes are tiny and it’s just so stuffy and damp down there. These places are sad to visit but good to get an idea what some people have to go through. It puts perspective on things. Oh, yeah I was forgetting. Tim got to shoot a M60, M16 and AK47. I know I sound like I know my guns. Part of the tour was the opportunity to shoot these three guns. And of course my hubby got to shot all three. Being around the shooting range FREAKED ME OUT. At first I wanted to shoot just once but being there I told Tim no way. I don’t know what it was but I was so disturb. Every time I would here the machine guns go off I would clinch and my heart beat was raising 200mph it seemed like. My knees were shaking and I felt I could collapse any minute. Mi Rambo had to do two rounds. He said he probably won’t have the opportunity again. He asked me to go down and take a photo. I tell you it took a lot of “huevos” to go down. I was so scared. Not so much of getting hurt since it was safe and well run. But I was just scared shittless of the gun shots. I was glad to be out of there.

Our last day in town was a cheesy tour around the Mekong delta in the south. Here is where the famous Mekong River actually goes out to the ocean. It’s a pretty big river. It starts in Tibet and goes through Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. It was very touristy. But OK for a day. They took us around a boat for almost 3 hours, stopping at little islands for food, candy and the lovely entertainment Tim calls it “el gato mojado.” They can sing for crap. It was annoying screechy sound hurting my ears. We also got to wear the conical hats. Even Tim! He looked so cute with his hat and purple strap around the chin to hold the hat in place. I have pictures!

Overall I liked Saigon. The vendors weren’t as bad. A friendly NO THANK YOU actually worked here.


I liked Vietnam. Very touristy but easy to travel and amazing scenery. I never knew palm trees and pine trees can grow close to each other. =)

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

Ana & Tim_Laos Pics. w/ Vane


First bus ride in Laos. Tim and Vane checking out the super bus!



Local Laos food.



Vane cruising along the river with the guide Khon on a bamboo raft.



Cute girls playing in the river.



Walking along the local village we spend one night.



Cute kids we found along our 2-day trek around Luang Namtha.



Older couple just hanging out in Luang Namtha.



Streets of Luang Prabang.



We ate a few of these sandwiches made from this cute lady.



Main source of transportaion for "farangs" in Laos.



Rice fields in Luang Prabang.



Amazing sunset in Van Vieng.



Tubing in Van Vieng.

P.S. Don't mind my creativity with the captions. =) A.

Ana & Tim_Thailand Pics.


Inside the grand palace in Bangkok.



Reclining buddha at the Wat Pho in Bangkok



Tim on a local bus. He is a big too tall for the seat.



Vane posing with one of the eight tigers at this temple.



The trio riding on the cute elephants!



Elephant bathing in Kachanburi. Alot of fun!



Buddha head tangled up in an old tree.



Las Hermanitas at one of the ruins in Ayutthaya.



Learning how to cook cashew chicken.



How we felt at the end of the cooking class - full and sleepy.



Visiting the Longneck village in Chang Rai.

Saturday, March 03, 2007

Tim_Feb14 - Feb27 (Laos)

Feb 14
We woke up early to catch our all day bus to Luang Namtha. Having seen the town and the people from before I was ready for and interesting ride. Sure enough when we got to the "bus station" there were only two small buses. Interesting. Our driver bought the tickets for us and helped us get on the bus then zoomed out of sight.

There were only about four locals on the bus so we had a good choice of seats. That's always a stressful time since you have to try and be strategic on which seat is the best. I chose the one seat near the door and Ana and Vane got the double seat across from me. I didn't really have anywhere to set my feet but I was banking on the ability to stretch my legs out. Hopefully that would counter act the sucky foot room I had.

Eventually like all third world countries the bus filled up with people and tons of shit and people. It was wonderful to watch people continue to poor in with their numerous bags on vegetables, t-shirts, and car parts. You name it they travel with it like that bus is some kind of semi truck/people bus. Oh man it was great and in the end we were head to toe people with about six people sitting on the floor with rice bags and one older guy on a small plastic chair. The driver's helper jumped in and was barely able to close the door. He was going to have to stand up the entire trip. Being that full meant only one thing - we were ready to go and I heard the engine start up. Away we went bouncing down the road.

The ride to the next city was overall not as bad as I had expected. There were of course a few more stops along the road to pick up yet more people. That was to be expected and it was getting so crowded on the floor people were on top of each other. I was lucky I got the seat I did and only had trouble keeping my feet on the small four inch ledge available to me. It could have been worse.

The countryside while driving was interesting. Tons of huts on stilts. That seems to be the way they build things here. I bet it's for the heat as well as the animals. Probably helps having your house on stilts in the rainy season as well. Either way the people looked poor and the villages looked real. It was nice to be in a country with some tooth on the edges. I love Thailand but it's lost it's bite and now feels more like a civilized country. Laos was still rough and I liked the change.

We stopped for lunch along the way and I had a bowl of diarrhea. Well it wasn't that yet but looking at the kitchen it came from I was sure in a few hours it was going to be that. But oh well down the hatch it went and I did the old Catholic sign on my chest and burped. I told my stomach "show me what you got baby".

Vane and Ana didn't dare eat anything and I was getting the feeling they might both be losing some weight in this country.

The bus horn honked and we all jumped back in and headed down the road again. The roads were really dirty and dusty and their was an ENORMOUS amount of construction going on. The terrain was one hundred percent hills covered in dense vegetation. It was really impressive to watch them carving up all the mountains to make the road. It was really impressive and I wondered how they ever got the money to create those roads? In the end I found out that China and Thailand was footing the bill. They wanted a better land link between them. Made sense.

By the time we finally reached our city it was evening and both Vane and I had brown dusty shoulders from having the windows open. It was pretty funny. We were all pretty tired and we dropped Vane with the bags and Ana and I searched for a place. We found an ok place for a decent price. The places were pretty rough around the edges but it would have to do.

We dropped our bags quickly and hit the town to try and secure a two day trek for the following two days. We were really lucky and in about one hour we were able to find an agency and lock in a two day tour that took us through a couple villages and some jungle.

After locking down our tour we headed back to the hotel to hit the showers. Luckily the showers were warm and we were grateful for that. After we all knocked the dust off our butts we headed out to check out the small town and see what we could find for dinner. It was Valentines day and I told the girls they could go to any restaurant they wanted and order anything they wanted. That was a joke since the town had about two restaurants.

In the end we found a nice little place that served not so nice food. But what the hell it was food and we still enjoyed it. The one things that was actually exceptionally good was the ice coffee. Damn it was solid. It was rich and tasted like something from Starbucks. I loved it and ordered a second one. Sure enough I was wired by the end of the night. I forgot it was coffee. Coffee. Coffee. Coffee. Heeee Heee. Coffeee Cofffeeeeeee. Coughhhhhhheeee. That tickles my tongue when I say it.

It took till about 6:00am for me to slow down to a mild roar and stop counting all the dots on the ceiling that night.











Feb 15
We woke up early and packed up our small packs for the hike. Since it was only an overnight hike we were able to fit all of our gear in our small packs and put our large packs in storage.

We held up the local bank to get some cash before heading to the place we would be picked up for the hike. With our gear in hand we jumped in the Tuk Tuk with four other people. They seemed pretty cool at first. The British couple were really funny and I knew we would get along with them. The girl from Korea seemed cool but didn't speak much English. The older French girl seemed ok but the only problem was she was French.

After a fifteen minute drive we jumped out in a little village like area and hit the toilets. There were about fifty people scattered all over the place and my overall impression was that they didn't want us there. They seemed really introverted and had no desire to interact with us. Even the children which usually around the world interact with funny looking people. Instead these children stayed quiet and had a bland stare on their faces. It was that or they ran away. Really weird. I didn't like the vibe that was in the air and was ready to hit the trail.

Sure enough we hit the trail and the first few miles were pretty much straight up and out of the valley. The trails in these countries don't zigzag they just go straight up no matter how steep it was. The weather was a little humid so it didn't take long before I needed to turn on the windshield wipers on my forehead.

We struggled for about the first few hours before we finally took lunch on a beautiful hut built on the edge of a jungle valley. The French lady was having some trouble with the hills and we kept having to wait for her. But it was cool with me since it gave me a chance to relax.

The view of the valley while eating lunch was really spectacular. The wind was blowing in the trees and it was a great atmosphere. Lunch was served to us on a banana leave and we all got a little woven jar of sticky rice to eat the food with. I thought I had eaten sticky rice before but when I reached my hand in to grab a hunk I realized I hadn't. That rice was amazingly sticky. You could easily make a baseball and pitch it to someone. I bet if they hit it with a bat it wouldn't even fall apart.

As we ate lunch I wondered how well my stomach would be able to digest that sticky rice. Would it remain the same shape as when I stuffed it in my mouth? My butt shivered at the though. Could I make heart shapes or clover shapes and would they stay that shape? I didn't want to find out so I started eating really small balls of sticky rice with my food. I could handle goat pellets but not elephant pellets.

With lunch in the gullet we geared up again and started walking. We walked for about five hours that day which was a pretty good hike. Vane did great hiking even though this was only her third hike. Crazy girl. She was a little slow on the downhills but did great overall.

We reached the final village in the evening and claimed our beds for the night. We were all next to each other in a large hut on the floor. They had a decent mat for us and blankets which was surprising to see.

After settling our beds we headed out to check out the river. Vane decided she wanted to go out on the make shift raft with the guide. It was pretty funny to watch as they both keep almost falling in. But in the end Vane was victorious and didn't fall.

It looked like good fun and after a while I decided to join them in the river as well. It wasn't the cleanest but what the heck.

We swam and joked around for about a half an hour before we got out and dried off. I felt much better and almost like I had taken a shower.

In the evening we walked around the village a little and checked it out. I didn't feel very welcome and the people lacked any real expression. Even the kids again? It was weird. No where in the world can you contain the curiosity and craziness of a child. But here in this country they were distant and cold. They were too small to understand what was going on and I wondered if genetics played into it? It was weird and sad at the same time.

After walking around for a little bit and checking out all the dead looking people and crazy animals all over the place we headed to a hut to have dinner and meet with the chief of the village. I was really interested to meet with him and see what he had to say.

Dinner turned out to be ok. The food was mostly sticky rice with vegetables prepared in different ways. The meat looked iffy so I stayed away from it. The girl who prepared the meal was also going around with shots of the local rice whiskey. Damn that stuff will put hair on your chest. We all drank some and it even had a little kick to it.

At the end of the meal we talked with the chief. Our guide was the translator and it was interesting to hear his stories and his point of view. He was a very simple and strong man and when he spoke he talked with his head looking at the floor most of the time. I wondered what the world must have looked like to him.

After dinner we sat outside out hut for a little bit. The locals had made us a fire and we sat around staring at the flames. Eventually I had to head to the toilet and drop a bomb. I was in for it since there was no light and I didn't want to turn on my flashlight since everyone within a hundred miles could see me squatting above the rim. It was a complicated mission that ended with a bloop and me smiling in the dark. Direct hit baby!

I decided after my successful mission I had best call it a night and catch some sleep before the next big day. I had told Vane to change beds with me because there were allot of ants near her bed and she was really scared of them. That turned out to be a good move because as soon as I crawled under the large bug net protecting us from the insects I killed a cockroach right near Ana's head. I didn't bother waking her up since it would only have freaked her out more. I was a little worried though since it was also right near my pillow as well. So in the interest of safety I put my earplugs in that night. I didn't need any roaches laying eggs in my ears that night.










Feb 16
We woke up pretty early to have some more nasty rice with breakfast and head out. Vane wasn't digging the food and was getting pretty hungry. We would have to get her some food when we got back in town.

The first part of the hike that day was pretty easy as we followed the bank of the river. It was a pleasant hike will a mild downhill to it. At one point we had to cross cut through the jungle to catch the trail again. I wasn't too happy about this since there are allot of unexploded bombs and landmines in the raw jungle. But in the end we all made it through with out feet and some muddy shoes.

Lunch was in a little village that was pretty uninteresting. The venders were a hard sell and it got a little annoying. It could have been worse though.

We continued to hike the rest of the day through some pretty amazing jungle. There wasn't much virgin forest left in all of Laos due to the logging and the war. Laos has the title for being the most bombed country in the world. The US ran bombing campaigns for years that averaged 2.2 million dollars in bombs a day. Can you imagine? WOW.

The virgin forest we were able to hike through was really magical. The canopy was thick and the bamboo and trees were massive. Really magical and the wind made it all sounds so much more amazing. Really cool experience.

At the end of the trail we had to ascent another large section with the French girl and her new massive basket she bought in the village far behind. But we waited for her and all was good. The funny thing was when we started going down hill Vane was a little slower and we let the group, along with French girl continue ahead. Eventually we caught up to them and they were waiting. The first thing the French girl said was "Finally we've been waiting for over a half an hour for you". What an idiot and proved to my why we should call our "French fries" - "Freedom fries" instead. I couldn't believe that lady. Whatever. What can I say she's French.

With her idiot comment to the wind we headed down the trail to finish the trip in another village. We were all pretty tired from the journey and you could see it in our faces as we drove back to town.

Once back in town we hit the showers and grabbed some sustenance. I think Vane was happy to not have to eat sticky rice again. I must say I was also pretty happy.

We all crashed pretty hard that night. We had an early morning bus again which was sure to be fun.











Feb 17
We woke up early once again to catch the early morning bus. I was getting pretty tired of waking up early and it was starting to feel like I was back in the work force again. I HATE waking up early.

We headed to the local restaurant to grab some quick breakfast before we hit the road again. Ana and Vane had some French bread with butter and I had some French toast that ended up tasting surprisingly good. The French toast was a little heavy but it went down smooth and I was happy to have it in my belly.

About two hours down the never ending twisty roads of upper Laos I realized that French bread in my belly wasn’t the best thing to have there. It was rolling all over the place and was starting to make me a little sick.

Sure enough over the course of the day that French bread keep rolling all over and fighting with me. The driver drove pretty slow overall keeping the turns under nine G’s or so.

In the end the nine hour bus ride was pretty tough and I ended up taking two Dramamine pills. Those pills left me drowsy and left me with a head that keep fishing all over the place.

Once we finally arrived to Laung Prabang I was pretty excited. The ride was long and we rolled into town just as the sun was setting. We grabbed a local tuk tuk and headed into the area of town we wanted to stay. We were all pretty tired and of course the first place we went to was full. So we tried another and that was full. So we tried another and that was full. Shit we were in a town late with trouble finding a place. Those kind of frustrating moments are fertile grounds for me to start getting green eyes and my muscles to start growing. Soon after that I tear off my shirt and go crazy.

But luckily that night I found a guest house with an AMAZING room for about triple what we paid for our room in the last city. It was pricy but we took it. The hotel girl said it was the last room and I only had five minutes to get Ana and come back. Luckily we made it in time since the there were two people waiting to take our room when we got there. What a crazy, busy, overpriced, touristy little town.

As Ana and Vane walked into the room they were in Augh. They keep saying “Wow look at this room” and “Tim you are so handsome” and “Tim you’re the most amazing man I’ve ever met” or something like that. Either way they loved the room and we were all happy to be there. The room was so nice and clean and even had cable TV, a hot shower, and an air conditioner. Can you believe that! We were ecstatic.

We all dropped our bags and jumped on our semi soft beds and switched on the TV to watch some local Lao channels. But to our surprise we even found two English channels one which was HBO. Can you believe that! This place is crazy pimp and we were rolling in style. I knew from that point on I could survive Laos.

Later that night we headed down to street to grab some dinner at a local place that was pretty good and get some TV supplies. We even found Double Stuff cookies which was amazing. I tell you I love this country soooooo much.

TV time in the evening was pretty special and we even got the chance to watch “Shark Tale”. I fell asleep that night and for the first time since the trip started I felt like I was home.











Feb 18
There was a TV in our room and Double Stuff by my side. That pretty much sums up most of what we did for the whole day. We bathed in bad food, cold air-conditioned air, and mind numbing television and it was wonderful. I didn’t feel at all bad for being so bad. It was my time to do nothing and we had earned it.

In the evening we did actually head down to the local night market which meant we had to walk. I was REALLY against the whole idea of moving from the bed but in the end gave into the powers of persuasion from my wife. The market was ok and had allot of the same junk you see around most Asian countries. Same Same but different.

After the market we retreated to our heavenly room and continued to be mindless, numb, and lazy. Ahhhh it was great. At some point I fell asleep. Probably with an Oreo in my mouth and a half empty beer bottle on my fat stomach.










Feb 19
Woke up late and lazed around the hotel room till about mid afternoon. Ana and Vane got up early and actually got some stuff done like by an airline ticket, withdraw money and walk more than the distance to the local food store. I’m not sure where they got the energy to do so much. I was having trouble just flipping over so I could watch television.

Finally though after starring at my favorite person my HBO I decided it was time to walk to the local food stall for some lunch. I had some noodles which were really great. There a local noodle that they soak in a broth and serve to you with meat and some vegetables on the side. It’s allot like the soup called “Pho” in Vietnam and I’m really starting to dig it.

After walking more than two thousand inches to the local food stall for lunch I was dead tired and had to resort to the room for a couple hours of rest and time with Mr. HBO. I invited Mr. AC and Mr. Double Stuff to the mid afternoon party and it was fabulous.

Around 3:30 we decided it was time to leave the room again and venture out into the scary and oh so real “real world”. I had heard it outside the window all day and it was time to go check it out.

The evening was starting to cool down and we headed down to the Mekong river edge to have some shakes and maybe some food. Luckily we found a table overlooking the river and sat down to test the food. Luckily we only ordered some shakes and egg roles because the food was mediocre and the malaria carrying monsters were all over us. For some reason those winged devils were all over us. I think it was the smell of Vane’s feet that was attracting them. Actually maybe that was helping fend them off. Either way they smelled and those small winged helpers of satin were in full force.

We ditched the old joint and walked decided to have some overpriced pizza in a little shop near the center. The food turned out ok and was heavily influenced by the French. That was a good thing since Laos pizza without that influence could be really bad news.

Since we had done so much this day I decided we should head back to the room before we got ourselves too tired and maybe even sick. So after a stop at the local market for some beer we headed back to the comfort of our room and away from the unpredictable and often scary “real world”.

Ana fell asleep even before we got back to the room so Vane and I had to watch “War of the Worlds” with that sexy Tom Cruise all by ourselves. It was pretty funny since Vane had never seen it and was on the edge of her bed all night. At one point I threw a paper and hit her on the arm and she about jumped out of her skin. It was pretty mean but at the same time pretty funny. Poor thing has to deal with a pain in the butt brother in law.

Eventually the movie ended and we all sleep and tried to gather strength for another tough day of relaxing.










Feb 20
We all woke up at a decent time despite the fact we only sleep about twelve hours the previous day and only had two naps. We jumped out of bed and headed to the local bike shop to rent some bikes.

With our passport in hawk and three dollars missing we were on our way down the crazy Laos streets. Ana and Vane were much more comfortable on a bicycle than a motorcycle and it showed. They were weaving threw traffic like professionals.

First stop was at a famous temple. Since this was only the three hundred, six million, and thirty point five seventh fifteenth seventh sixth fifth temple I’ve seen on this trip you can only imagine how excited I was when were arrived at the gate. After paying a mere one US dollar to get in the temple we headed inside to explore Laos’s “most beautiful temple”. I walked quietly with my camera in hand ready to capture anything that moved. Sure enough the temple was superb. Or should I say spectacular. Or should I say just like every other temple I’ve seen just smaller, older, and more boring.

After taking three photos and walking around for a while we headed out and back onto our bikes. We must have biked at least six million more millimeters before we stopped once again to grab another shake by the river. Fortunately I won the game of Russian pineapple shake roulette and go the best tasting shake this joint made – pineapple. It was great Ana’s and Vane’s mixed fruit shake just didn’t cut it. It kind of had a monkey butt after taste to it.

After shakes we headed to the internet café to avoid the mid day sun and do some more typing and catching up on the old blog.

In the evening when the sun started loosing some of its strength we headed down to the main drag to catch some dinner at a local dinner looking place we had spotted earlier in the day.

Dinner turned out to be pretty good and we were all pretty satisfied. After dinner I headed back to town to catch some more time on the computer while Vane and Ana headed to the market to shop a little and pick up a BeerLao shirt.

The rest of the evening was pretty typical with me running the usual twenty miles at the end of the day, fighting off numerous hot model chicks trying to jump my bones, and saving a few lives in a massive fire that engulfed a small village.

I was so tired after the evening I even fell asleep in my superhero suit.










Feb 21
Of course all the buses in Laos seem to run at the dead early morning hours when the sky is still grey and should be snoring away in bed that’s too short so my feet hang off.

Sure enough we got up and caught the 5:30 local bus to Vang Vieng. I was kind of excited to get there since it sounded like a pretty chill city waste a few days in.

The seven hour bus ride went off pretty smooth and I was actually able to sleep for most of it with the help of my Benadril. I popped a couple of those pills after I saw the guy handing out plastic bags to everyone before we hit the road. Those are Lao vomit bags and I didn’t want to be filling mine up that day.

I think we hit the town around 1:00. We got dropped off next to a large dirt lot and they said we were close to town. Man I love that feeling.

We walked into town and dropped off Ana at the closest restaurant with shade. She wasn’t felling too well and was starting too get sick. So with Ana in the shade sipping a pineapple shake we headed out to find the best hotel deal in town.

The sun was hot and the searching was interesting. We were finding places with a huge different in price and eventually found a pad with AC and a decent view of the river for fifteen dollars a night.

We headed back and picked up Ana. By the time we got to her we decided it was best to rest a little in the shade and have a shake before we ventured back to the hotel.

We walked back to the hotel and dumped off our bags. Ana wasn't feeling so well so we stayed in the AC for a while and waited for that burning campfire in the sky to settle down.

Toward the evening Ana was feeling better and we headed to town to grab some eats. Allot of the restaurants in town had seats that were like beds that you could lie down and watch TV while eating. It was pretty cool and seemed like a chill town. It also looked like a pretty heavy drug town which brought allot of hippie wasters in. But oh well we were only there for a few days and we had to make the best of it.

We found a little local dive that advertised it had "Special Shakes". We though we'd see how good they were and ordered a couple. It turned out the shakes were really good and strong and the food was excellent as well. Ana and Vane got a chicken salad that was pretty killer and I got a sandwich.

We chilled there for a while watching Shrek. The TV was fine in the beginning but started getting kind of distorted toward the end and we decided it was time to head back to the room and chill for a little bit.

We had a blast in the room joking around and playing the card game "Uno". Man I haven't played that game since I was a kid. It was great playing and I felt like a kid playing the game.

Eventually we all got pretty tired and decided it was time to hit the wheat for the night.











Feb 22
We woke up late and kind of lazed around for a while. Ana wasn't feeling good and I didn't like the fact that she was running such a high fever. We just came from the hike in the remote north jungle and our guides had said they all got Malaria a few times. I was really hoping Ana didn't have anything like that since we were pretty far from any good medical attention. All we could do was wait and hope she felt better.

We were all pretty burned out anyways and Ana feeling sick just gave us a reason to do nothing for most of the day. Eventually we got out of the room to grab some lunch at a local place. The bed type seating areas and the TV meant we were there for about two hours watching a movie and eating. It was chill though and we made the best of it.

Evening came quick and the day seemed to pass with us doing much of nothing. Man what losers. Oh well. We headed to the same place we had eaten before for some more great shakes and chicken salads. Vane had a crush on the older Indian looking waiter so I think that's the main reason we headed back to that place. Since Ana wasn't feeling so good she just had some soup but Vane and I tore it up. We were hungry and thirsty.

Another lazy wasted day down the tubes - Kurrrrrrfllluusshhhhhhhhh ..blooooop...blop.blop.










Feb 23
We woke up at a decent time to grab some food and start the day. Ana was feeling better and decided she wanted to go tubing with us. Tubing was the main thing to do in this town and just required you jumping in a large tracker tire tube and floating down the river for about three hours. That's three hours minus the time needed to stop off at the make shift bars along the way.

Around 1:00 we headed to the place to grab our tubes and hit the toxic river for some fun. We all piled in the Tuk Tuk and it took us up river to the launch point. It wasn't too far and soon enough we were jumping in our tubes and hitting the river. The mountains along the river were spectacular and it was a pretty sweat idea this tubing thing.

It only took about two minutes for us to stop off at the second bar type thing on the side of the river to grab some beers. We got out of the tubes and jumped up on the bamboo platform. There were some other people there and they were jumping off the large platform. It was a pretty good jump and about twenty feet in the air. Vane looked like she wanted to try and jump and I told her go ahead if she wanted to. It was pretty high but if she wanted I told her I would wait in the water for her. She told us she wanted to do it herself and away she went up the latter.

I was pretty impressed at her courage. She's never really jumped off anything high and there she was about twenty feet in the air. Those crazy Caldera sisters. Vane was pretty scared and everyone started watching her and cheering her on. I was a little worried she would go too deep into the water and not be good at swimming to the surface. But she seemed pretty determined to do it herself and I didn't want to get in her way.

Eventually after a few minutes of cheering and her being scared she jumped. But she jumped the way someone who's never really jumped from heights jumped. She kind of fell off and tried to reach the water with her hands. Of course she came down flat and belly flopped hard in the water. Poor thing. I could tell the minute she jumped she was going to be in some pain.

I jumped in the water to grab her and help her to shore. When you smack that hard it takes it out of you and swimming is the last thing you want to do. Everyone clapped and we swam to shore. Poor Vane had some pretty good red marks on her right arm and leg. But she was a good sport about it and grabbed her beer and away we went down the stream. Crazy Vane.

Since both the girls had no real experience being in a tube and paddling it was pretty funny to watch them try to control the tube. Most of the time they were paddling in circles. It was a good time and we continued floating down the river for the next few hours drinking and laughing.

It was a good time and I didn't really realize how drunk I was till I stopped at one place to drain the main vein. I about fell out of my tube and I'm sure I looked like an idiot. Man was I that drunk? Damn BeerLao was strong beer. Luckily I was able to make it back into my tube and head down the river.

Vane ended up getting about as drunk as I did and we all had a good time. In the end we jumped ashore and walked back into town to turn in our tubes. It was a good time and the day was pretty much over by then.

Ana had started not feeling so good toward the end and we headed back to the room for her to rest and chill. Her fever was back up again and I was starting to get a little worried she did have Malaria. All I could do was wait for one more day and see how things went. If she got worse we were going to bus to the next town and catch a flight to Bangkok.

Ana was sick and Vane and I were drunk. It didn't take long for all of us to start sawing some logs.










Feb 24

This day started like many of the previous days her with us being bums and feeling pretty burned out. There wasn't allot to do so we seemed to be lazy and unexcited in general. I think we were having a pretty good time it's just we weren't doing that much.

In the afternoon we decided we would grab a local taxi to see the caves. I wasn't expecting too much but it was something to do and Ana wasn't one hundred percent yet. She was feeling better though and that made me happy to see. No malaria just a regular old cold.

The retard driver we got wasn't much help but eventually we found our way to the cave from where he had dropped us off and climbed the massive stairs to the entrance. Once inside there wasn't really much to see but some stalactites and stalagmites. Man I've been waiting a long time to use those words and sound like I know what I'm talking about.

After we wandered through the cave for a while we headed back to the town to grab some dinner and chill away the rest of the day. I was getting a little tired of doing nothing in that town and ready to hit the road the next day to another town that had nothing to do as well.

For dinner Vane and I shared a "Special Pizza" which turned out to be pretty unspecial. Oh well we had to try it.

That afternoon we packed and chilled and got yet some more sleep.










Feb 25
Getting up that morning turned out to be pretty rough. The week of debauchery had caught up to me and I was pooped out. I think Vane was hurting a little as well but did a better job of hiding it than me.

We threw our dead body bags on our backs and headed down the dusty roads to the bus stop. We were able to catch the 6:30am local bus which was pretty sweat. I was a little worried we were going to miss it.

The bus ride was only four hours long and I pretty much slept through most of it. Of course I chose a seat that didn’t turn out so good for me. It’s a funny game when you enter a bus and your one of the first people on and you have to choose your seat. There is an art form to it that I don’t seem to be very good at. But so far these are the rules I’ve paid severely for to learn. I give them too you with the hope that you understand and learn.

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RULES OF THIRD WORLD LOCAL BUS SEAT SELECTION
BY TIM VAN KOUWENBERG

Step 1 -- Carefully and quickly scan the bus

If you’re lucky enough to be the first one on the bus look at the first few rows of seats in the front. Make sure there are no vegetables, chickens, or clothing on the seats. If there is you’re not the first.

Step 2 – Locate the gem seats.
Look for the odd seat or seats that the bus designer might have made a mistake on. There could be a gem seat with enough leg room to stretch out in. But be careful. These may also be the seats where all the bags of rice and shit coming in the bus get placed.

Step 3 – Move fast and choose
Move fast because the locals are experts on sniffing out the best seats in the bus and before you know it a bag of vegetables will fly past you and save the seat you were just eyeballing.

Step 4 – Secure the seat and imagine
Secure the seat you want by placing your but on it. Then try to imagine the bus completely full. No fuller. No fuller. Ok now add about twenty more people, six hundred pounds of crap and a few animals and see how it feels. If it looks bad try to move.

Step 5 – Prey
Whether its Allah or God talk to him. Give him some offering or prey - whatever it takes to strike a deal that will help you’re through this journey. The rest of the journey is up to them.


---

Even though I’m kind of a Jedi bus seat picker I ended up with a bum seat that keep giving me trouble. I chose the front seat that had the wheel well under the seat. That meant my knees would hit my face if someone else sat down but there was a small probability of that since it was such an early bus and there weren’t many people on it when we left the terminal. I could hog the entire seat for the trip and other people could just sit in the back.

I was wrong. I should have remembered that no matter how many people are on a bus they will all fight for the first few rows. Fuck it was annoying. Girls keep getting on the bus and sitting on the few inches of seat left to my side. I then would have to shove into the corner and kiss my knees for a little bit. No matter how much I moved or gave them signs that I wanted them to leave they didn’t move. Damn hard headed, less than smart, Lao people. Man that can get frustrating. The funny thing was there were about twenty full seats open in the back but NO they had to come to my seat. URRRRGGG.

Finally after the second girl left I placed my bag on the remaining part of the seat and tried to continue to sleep. That didn’t work since the next girl getting on just picked up my bag and threw it at me so she could sit down. I was pretty pissed and took up about eighty percent of the chair just to piss her off. She pretty much had one cheek on the chair and the other one in the air. I didn’t care and she didn’t seem to either. I keep opening my smelly armpits in the air and trying to piss her off enough to leave. She was a persistent (or maybe dumb) little punk and held through.

Finally we made it to the destination and the little pain in the ass Lao girl got off. She didn’t look to happy but screw her. There were plenty of seats in the back.

We grabbed a Tuk Tuk and headed to the downtown area to grab a hotel. We were lucky and found a pretty nice little place for eighteen dollars a night. That was about six dollars each but it was pretty pimp. I knew this was going to be a pretty gay town so I at least wanted to have a nice place to chill.

In the evening when the heat resided we headed out see the town and find something to eat. Of course we found a little place where the food and atmosphere both sucked. We were so lucky.

We were lucky though to find a nice mini mark near by that had some pretty good little treats. Those treats and some movie time was all we needed to end the day on a good note.










Feb 26
We woke up early to eat and run any final errands before we headed to the airport and get Vane to her plane. It was sad to think of having Vane leave and traveling with just Ana and me.

We grabbed a Tuk Tuk and headed to the airport after an unsatisfying breakfast. The airport to my surprise was pretty large and nice. Vane got her bags checked in and we waited with her till the last minutes before heading out. It was sad to see her leave and as we left the airport it felt lonely again.

We grabbed another Tuk Tuk to the Vietnamese embassy to get our visas. We wanted to nail those down first thing so we didn’t get caught in this town too long waiting for them. Man that would suck since the town isn’t that interesting.

Of course when we arrived to the embassy it was closed for lunch for two hours. That is so frustrating. So we walked over to a local shop and grabbed some food. I had a great little yellow noodle soup and Ana had nothing. She’s not so hot on much of the food and wasn’t really in the mood to eat. I was hungry since I didn’t eat breakfast because my stomach was off. I was still fighting off the sickness and that warm soup was helping.

After lunch we grabbed yet another Tuk Tuk to take us about a mile down the street to the “most important monument in all Laos”. Sounds pretty cool but in Laos that doesn’t mean much. But it was still something I was willing to spend a few dollars to see.

The Golden Stupa was pretty cool and we spend about twenty minutes walking around and taking some pictures. I didn’t really expect much and for that reason wasn’t that disappointed.

A couple “Click Clicks” and away we went back to the embassy to hopefully seal the deal on our Vietnamese visas. We headed in the gates and looked for the right office. Since there was only one person in the entire complex things weren’t looking good. But in time our guy showed up and we were able to process our visas in a matter of minutes. It was great and we only had to pay another twenty dollars to get it right then rather than wait a few days. We were both pretty happy at how painless the process was.

We jumped in yet another Tuk Tuk and headed back to the main part of town where our hotel was. We chilled for a little bit in the room then headed out onto the three restaurant town to get some dinner. We had eyeballed a place when driving in the taxi and returned there for dinner. It looked like a pretty sharp place and had of all things, wagon wheels as a theme. It was pretty funny and seemed really American.

Dinner turned out to be ok and neither of us was too excited about our food. Poor Ana has really been getting some bad meals and I can tell she’s getting tired of it. I will have to find her some good food soon before she turns into a tiger. That could be real trouble.

We hit the local mini mark to grab some snacks to eat while watching yet more television. The snacks helped ease the tension in our unhappy stomachs and eventually we both found our way into Sleepland.










Feb 27

We decided to wake up late and do nothing this day. We had a great room with a TV and that was enough to keep us busy in this little funky town. We’ve been spending allot of time in the rooms we’ve been getting instead of heading out to see the city. To me this is a sure sign that were getting bored and we need to keep moving and find things more interesting.

Around lunch time we headed out to grab some food and run a few errands. We needed to figure out where we were headed next and if we wanted to fly their or bus. I was really looking forward to flying but in the end it was just too expensive and didn’t get us to the places we wanted to go. So we bought another twenty-four hour overnight bus – YEAH! Oh how I love those damn things. Fuck another bus ride. I swear if I, When I, Should I, Oh you know what I mean. Damn I hate buses.

After getting the tickets, some American dollars, and my new book for the bus called “Don’t Jump” we headed to the river to grab some dinner. We had seen allot of small tents and food vendors there the other day and thought we would give them a try. They couldn’t suck as bad as all the other places we’ve eaten at so far in this town.

As we were walking down and trying to find a quazi clean food vendor the clouds started to look pretty mean. There was allot of lightning and the air was ripe for rain. I told Ana lets just eat fast and hope the rain stays away.

After finding a nice vendor we grabbed a table next to the Mekong River bank. The river was really low at this time of year and we pretty much were sitting on the edge of a huge dry field with the water about a thousand feet away but it still was cool. I’m sure when the rainy season comes the river is quiet a site to see.

For dinner I ordered a first time large piece of pork ribs. They have always looked good on the grill but I was afraid of the sanitary. But since I had just bought a full role of toilet paper that evening I was ready for anything. Ana got some fried rice and we sat there watching the skies get darker and the lightning get stronger. It was a really magical night and I love that feeling right before a rain storm is about to hit. I get ants in my pants and get all excited. Especially since I’m from California where it never rains let alone lightning.

Sure enough about the time my pork ribs hit the table the large rain drops started falling. Large rain drops are a sure sign it’s about to pour down on us. I ordered and umbrella and a coke.

Meteorologist Tim Van Kouwenberg was accurate on his forecast since about two minutes after I ordered the tent it started raining hard. It was really funny to watch the guys trying to set up the umbrellas as we ate as fast as we could. It kind of sucked because the meet was really good. In the end umbrellas filled with holes didn’t really stop the rain as much as divert it for a little bit or maybe funnel it into a larger more “waterfall” like stream coming down on us.

We finally finished, paid and ran down the road back to our hotel. The hotel wasn’t far but we got pretty wet. It was fun and we jumped on the bed for a foursome that night TV, AC TV, and AV.